(Vauxhall) Viva Las Vegas

And so it came to pass, that Jo & Seán headed off to spend 40 (ok, 3) days and 40 (ok, like, whatever) nights in the desert.

But there's no fasting in Las Vegas, just endless buffet meals and stretchy lycra pants; yeah, baby, yeah!

So there we were, the gambling capital of the world. On a budget, and suffering from a cold. We know how to party.

Luckily for us, our flexibility about days off meant a cheap deal from lastminute.com and a frankly ridiculous room at Caesar's Palace. Not that we complained about our King-size bed, 96" TV (approx.), spa swimming pool/bath etc. etc.

Never been to Vegas? It's difficult to explain what it's all about. It doesn't get much easier to comprehend when you're actually there. But I feel sure it's an experience everyone should try at least once in their life. This was my second.

The last time I was here, I was a young strip of a thing, backpacking around the USA, and guarding every penny as closely as I could. I remember coming in to Vegas on the train, late at night, with the neon sliding suddenly into picture as we turned the last corner around the desert rocks. I walked off the train into 40 degree heat despite it being 10 at night - almost knocked flat as I stepped from the air-conditioned carriage and into downtown Las Vegas. Heady days indeed.

This time didn't match the visceral impact; we left the airport in pleasant temperatures and daylight hours. But, Vegas has changed and still seeks to amaze and confound. It succeeds.

The strip has changed radically and is unrecognisable from 15-or-so years ago. The newest casinos then - Mirage and Excalibur, are dwarfed by the newer generation of Caesar's, Bellagio, Venetian and TI, which are unbelievable in their scale. They may not have much heart, but they are truly breathtaking.

Vegas as a purely gambling resort is long gone, but it still keeps the punters happy while offering a huge number of diversions, from shopping to parachuting, through golf, Hoover Dam tours and having your picture taken with Elvis.

We attempted to see as much as Vegas had to offer in our short time, and enjoyed ridiculous food portions, and as many free shows as we could. Our favourite probably was the water show at Bellagio - hundreds of dancing water jets and pyrotechnics to the sounds of Frank Sinatra.

Our big spend was the Jubilee! show at Bally's. Girls, girls, girls and covered patchily in rhinestones. And feathers. Apparently the costumes were amazing, but I was distracted.

I think I gambled. I am poorer, but only financially.

The old downtown is now the Fremont St. Experience. The heart and soul of the original Vegas is now a covered pedestrian walkway. It still had more soul, but its corporeal body was eviscerated.

So, I've seen Vegas again, and it was different. I was sad about some of the changes, but still found the experience fantastic. If you've always wanted to go, then go. If you're not sure, then go. If you're not interested, then why are you still reading? You know you want to. Go.